Alienware Predator I Case build (a.k.a. CMMII Predator)

I've recently obtained a 'vintage 'Predator I' case. I'll post photos of the build on this thread. I have a lot of prep work to do on my case and some hardware decisions to make before doing a swap from my current case rig.

A-List To-Do:
- As I've only vinyl wrapped the top panel, and plan to wrap the front bezel; leaving the door and sides as is for it's original plasma purple ( or consiracy blue?) for contrast. (Colorblind.) I appreciate the original case color.
- Sort out the current case lights' functionality. It has small cathode tubes intact with the inverter box.
- Paint the metal core frame; likely black.
- Fab a side window similar to MNPCTech's design as done on his Predator I case. Great mod.
- Select/Use a liquid cooler on the I7 processor.
- NZXT Sentry LX LCD Meter fan control

I see some good 'Predator I' case build photos on this forum that I can borrow ideas from for adding case fans and increase air flow.

Alienware Aurora Predator I Case mod plan.jpg
Alienware Aurora Predator I Case mod plan.jpg
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Update: Progress is slow, but I've accumulated a few more parts. Actually, I'm hesitant to cut any of it as it's such a classic, but I've recently received some modders-mesh for the 'grill'; and likely would reduce the window mod to be a 4" circle due to the case's plastic shell structural molded-ribbing. (There no reason to cut a larger window due to the interior hard drive cage being so prominently viewed per the original idea; and the latch must remain uncut that further restricts the window size.)
I am debating a vertical video card mount; but with a slight modification. I've got a CAD sketch for the unique mount. With such a small window design, it would not show if parallel with the motherboard, and would likely block the graphics card's fan airflow.
I'll get focused on this project over the Christmas holidays and post photos, soon.
For the side window, I went with a 5" diameter portal. At minimum, the portal will show the blue liquid cooler (but likely not much more). Obviously more finishing work is yet to be done. The window-cut is a milestone. I was able to primer and spray bright silver onto the interior of the case.
Now, I need to plan for improved airflow and requires mounting fans in the bottom of the case; so more holes to cut, later.
I hope that I can get by without cutting any more ABS, but I may need to put a fan-hole in the top. Here's some photos: interior window plan mark.JPG interior metal side portal.JPG plastic panel portal cutout.JPG rough-in portal window show.JPG back view interior.JPG


Here's my design idea for the GPU mount; offset from vertical at an angle. I think I can do this without cutting away the existing case horizontal card-mounts on the back of the PC. This will allow for viewing and better fan position away from the panel. GPU mount design 45 degrees.JPG
Barely enough depth-space to vertical mount the GPU; unfortunately, there's no space for a 45-degree twist to show the GPU toward the window-portal (as I wanted to do). Those front-side fan mounting holes are NOT for 80mm fans as I had thought.
small 3 - fit.JPG
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With the side cover removed...
The front Alien-head logo doesn't emit light. Is it supposed to light up? I see that the front hinged-door has (4) screw fasteners. I'll pull it apart and examine.
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More pics...Too bad I only have one fan controlled per the Thermaltake Fan controller. I'll revisit the fan situation. The 80mm fan size holes do not align as I'd thought, so I'll need to use standoffs and make adapters.
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The front Alien-head doesn't emit light. The 'power LED' connector is attached to my MB as it should be. So, maybe the pin-polarity is reversed.
The original case's 'Power LED' plug has an odd female 3-connector plug (with the center being void of any connector), and the +/- were on the outer reaches. I used an Exacto knife blade and was able to rearrange the female connectors within the header's plug onto the MB; however, these may need the polarity reversed. The wires are red and black and I assumed that red is (+), and black is (-). But, does it matter as they are driving a simple 2-prong LED? Does anyone know the voltage required for the Logo head LED light?