About to embark on an aftermarket psu upgrade.

cq842000

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Sep 20, 2014
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About to embark on an aftermarket psu upgrade adventure.

Hello everyone,

I think Ive found a way to make installing an aftermarket PSU an easy task that anyone can do, and once I am finished I'll include a small parts list for anyone that wants to follow.

It goes like this, in 2010-2011 I built an uber rig consisting of all liquid cooled highly overclocked components, with four triple 120mm rads two independent loops, and two PSUs. I still have two Antec 1000w+ PSUs and I'll use the tpq 1000 instead of the tpq 1200. It's semi modular so I'll have to mod it to remove some non-modular connections.

Basically the mod consists of using an ATX 20+4/24 pin splitter to have one PSU drive two boards (mobo and power board), which should theoretically eliminate the power constraints of the 330w PSU and allow me to build a good loop for the CPU.

The PSU obviously has to remain external so I'm working out a way to have a 24 pin ATX pass through connector on the rear so that it's easily modular in nature. The beauty of my proposal is that since the splitter cable still connects the two boards, you could just detach the external PSU and run off of the 330 watt ac adapter if you wanted, though you wouldnt want both power supplies connected at the same time for obvious reasons.

This would not only fix the power constraints but also, eliminate the power sensor error since both boards are receiving power simultaneously like intended, you could keep the alienFX lighting, and best of all do this without leaving your side panel off.

Ive been scouring the net doing tons of research, lots of measurement, and consideration, and really think this is a viable solution.

Now for the cons. First and foremost, your electric bill, but it shouldnt be a surprise and as long as you have an efficient PSU, you shouldnt notice any change. Second and most important is that a pass-through ATX 24 pin connector would require small modification to the grill at the rear in the GPU space. That said here is the part I know I need so far, I'll update as that changes.

http://www.moddiy.com/products/Power-Supply-ATX-20%2dPin{47}24%2dPin-Cable-Y-Splitter.html
 
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I see You

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Jan 2, 2014
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It's not possible this way as the power board only will except 330 watt its a power constraint, my tech tried it before i gutted my x51 and the power board popped like a zit.
 

cq842000

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It's not possible this way as the power board only will except 330 watt its a power constraint, my tech tried it before i gutted my x51 and the power board popped like a zit.

Thats good news for me then. The Antec TPQ 1000 is a multi rail PSU. The ATX rail is 25A @ 12v which equals 300 watts peak. Should be good right? The beauty of a multi rail is 300watts per PCIe 6+2 pin connector for the gpu.
 

I see You

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Not sure all you can do is try i would pic up a new power board up just in case yours pops , i know they are a single rail board my tech explained it to me like this think of the board as your power supply and the power supply that connects to the wall supplies the current to the power supply inside the case, i know its wired but that's how it all works. then from there the power board sends out the relative current to all the components. All you can do like i said is try but i would make sure you have a spare power board just in case.
 

cq842000

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Not sure all you can do is try i would pic up a new power board up just in case yours pops , i know they are a single rail board my tech explained it to me like this think of the board as your power supply and the power supply that connects to the wall supplies the current to the power supply inside the case, i know its wired but that's how it all works. then from there the power board sends out the relative current to all the components. All you can do like i said is try but i would make sure you have a spare power board just in case.

Oh it's going to happen soon, and thanks for the info. If I'm reading the I/O and PCB correctly, the 19.5v/ 16.9A ac goes to the motherboard first and then powers the daughterboard via a 20 pin ATX connector. I have a couple of questions though. First what kind of PSU did you try this with and second did you use a 20 pin Y splitter? There are of course other ways of doing this and for the sake of testing I'm not afraid to lose a daughterboard. I'm just wondering where the step down occurs.
 

I see You

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Not sure my tech shop did it i would have to ask them, as i had them gut my x51 when the daughter board poped on them.
 

cq842000

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Not sure my tech shop did it i would have to ask them, as i had them gut my x51 when the daughter board poped on them.

Id definitely be interested in how it went down. In other news, I found a guy that runs an r9 290 without any issues at factory clocks even when loaded in his x51 without a PSU mod, so I'll be getting an upgrade soon. I'm still waiting on the PSU connector.
 

cq842000

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Not sure my tech shop did it i would have to ask them, as i had them gut my x51 when the daughter board poped on them.

Any further clarification yet? Specifically I need to know if they connected it via splitter or direct connection, what amperage and over how many rails was the PSU? That would save me alot of time as I've just received the splitter and I am about to hook it up.
 

cq842000

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So after consulting with an electrical engineer friend of mine, I see I've been looking at this all wrong. The power board is the second half of the PSU, not an external module like I was thinking, and you cannot power one PSU with another, much less with a different voltage rating. So, you were right and now that I see the problem from the correct perspective I understand why it popped like a zit. So an external pass through is still feasible, but you'd lose the lighting and a few other features....
 

I see You

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Hey sorry i did not get back with you i been pretty busy with work lately but yes that is correct. Actually you only loose the lighting and one power sensor thing that is all,you will get a halt on error for a power sensor but does not effect the board or other aspects of the computer, you can just hit F1 to bypass it or tell the bios to not halt on error.
 
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